Just in time for weekend sewing: The 20-minute Skirt Tutorial! After posting the quick skirt I made for our preschooler, I had some requests and emails for a tutorial, and am happy to put it together. Starring Alexander Henry’s Rock-A-Bye Rhymes in pink, a new 20 minute skirt for Miss M.
Not only is this skirt super quick to put together, it also only requires a half yard of fabric, making it a fantastic stash-buster. And since the measurements are fairly loose, it can be a fantastic gift item for all those birthdays and holidays. Nearly a perfect project, for any skill level! BONUS: As we go along, I’ve included additional instructions for those of you who’ll be using a serger, or who’ve just gotten one and are wondering when and where to serge. Yippee!
Lay out a half yard of fabric. Prewashing is always strongly encouraged. Trim the length of the fabric based on the height of your child. Our girl is pretty average in height for a 3-year-old, so I cut this to 15″–the length I wanted the finished skirt to be (13″, long enough to end right at her kneecap) plus 1″ for the waistband and 1″ for the hem. Adjust your measurements accordingly.
Remove your selvedges! Be a good kitteh.
Fold fabric right sides together, matching raw edges along the former selvedges. Stitch a seam using your presser foot as a seam guide, giving you approximately a 1/4″ seam allowance.
Press your seam allowances open. You now have a tube of fabric with a single seam.
(If you’re using a serger, rather than pressing your seam allowances open, serge the seam and press the serged seam allowance to one side.)
To create the casing for the waistband elastic, first fold over the upper edge about 1/4″ (but remember that the measurement is pretty flexible–just fold over a little bit, OK?). Press that in place at the iron.
Then fold over again, making a casing the same size as the elastic you’ll use. In this example, I’m using 3/4″ elastic, so I folded over a teensy bit more than 3/4″ to give myself some wiggle room.
Stitch very close to the folded edge to create the casing, but leave an opening where the elastic will be inserted (skip past all the serger instructions for an image of that–it’s three or four pictures down).
(If you’re using a serger, you can skip all the folding and pressing. Just serge all the way around the upper edge of the tube, running back over the first stitches at the end and chaining off.)
(With a serged edge, fold over to a depth equal to the width of your elastic, plus a little–here, I’ve folded over an inch.)
(Stitch your casing down right on top of those serged stitches.)
When you get almost back to where you started stitching that casing down, leave an opening where you’ll insert your elastic–it doesn’t need to be huge, just about 1.5 fingers wide. Be sure to backtack on either end of this opening–you’ll want it strong enough to withstand putting elastic in later.
At this point, I go ahead and stitch the hem. I think it’s a ton easier to do it here than to do it after the elastic has been installed and the skirt is all gathered up. Create the hem almost identically to the casing for the waistband: start by folding over 1/4″ on the lower edge.
Then fold another 3/4″ to create a 1″ hem. Press in place, nice and crisp. (Now, I should point out that you can totally create the hem on the serger the exact same way you did the waistband: serge the edge, then stitch over the serged stitches on your machine. But I think the folded-and-stitched edge on the inside of the hem looks nicer, don’t you? Choose the one you prefer, and go with that.)Stitch super close to the folded edge.
When you get back to where you started, stitch right back over where you began and backtack. Your hem is done! Easy, huh?
OK, now we put in the waistband elastic. First, cut a length of elastic the same measurement as your child’s waistline. This gives you an extra inch for overlap when we stitch it closed, plus just the right amount of stretch (without squeezing little tummies).
Find the biggest safety pin you have. Most times, I use a diaper pin, but today I found a giant gold-toned one in the pin cushion–no idea where that came from, but gift horses, right?
Place the safety pin into the opening you left when you stitched the casing.
Pull the pin through, and the elastic will follow behind.
Push the safety pin along, allowing the casing fabric to bunch up as you go. (Note to self: get a manicure!)
Once you’ve got a big ol’ bubble of fabric bunched up behind the pin, pull it on out, holding the pin in place by pinching it through the fabric. Keep going all the way around the casing–your goal is to bring the pin out the other side, and drag the elastic with it.
Thanks to my friend Courtney for this little trick: to prevent the other end of the elastic from being sucked into the casing, as well, use a second (smaller) safety pin to anchor it to the seam on the outside of the casing. (Although, let’s be honest, she really should get back on that blog…)
Eventually, your safety pin will come out the other side of the opening in the casing. Jubilee!
Pull out enough elastic on either end to work with it. Overlap the two ends by about 1″ and pinch them together.
Stitch the two ends together forward and backward, about 3-4 times to get a good anchor going. You’ll want it strong!
Once the two ends are secure, you’ll have a loop of elastic outside the opening in the casing.
Pull the loop to the inside of the casing.
Stitch the opening closed, just that one little bit. Trim all your threads, both here and at the hem.
I like to add one final step: I stitch through the elastic at the side seams to prevent it from shifting and rolling over. I really, really hate it when the elastic gets all twisted inside the casing, mostly because it’s super uncomfortable. In this skirt, with its one seam, I make that one seam a side seam, and stitch forward and backward through the elastic there, 3-4 times, just like when I joined the elastic ends. I do the same thing at the other side, directly across from the seam, after I’ve stretched the skirt out and evenly distributed the volume of the gathers. Perfect, no-shifting waistband!
And this, 20 minutes later, is the finished product.
A sweet, simple skirt that is totally adaptable and embellishable (if that’s a word). Imagine it with pockets, or rick rack, or a contrast hem! So easy, so quick.
Now, before you get all, “Sure, 20 minutes for you, but not for me!” I’ll grant it might not take 20 minutes the first time. But so many things in sewing are like a parabola: they get closer and closer to zero each time you do them (but never reach it). So maybe the very first time you do this it takes an hour. But the next time? It’ll take half that. And the next time, you’ll shave off a few more minutes, and on and on. It’ll never happen instantly, but the more you do it, the more quickly you’ll get it done. I believe in you!
Now get on out there, and do some dancing!
August 17th, 2009 at 7:02 am
Thank you SO MUCH for thit tutorial!!! I made my first skirt yesterday! My 4-year old loves her new Dora skirt!! It took me closer to an hour, but I know the time will get quicker with each skirt I make! Thank you!!
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August 18th, 2009 at 10:09 am
Thanks for posting pictures! I've got my fabric in the wash right now!! I'm excited to get going on the skirt. I'll be making alot, since my daughter LIVES in skirts
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August 18th, 2009 at 5:40 pm
hi deobrah, hope you're doing well. thank you SO SO much for your blog and this sweet tutorial! it was perfect for a little confidence boost with a giddy smile from my niece to boot!
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August 19th, 2009 at 9:35 am
Hi Deborah!
LOVE IT! I added you to our link luv roundup today!
http://www.luvinthemommyhood.com/2009/08/link-luv-roundup_19.html
Thanks for a great refashion!
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August 19th, 2009 at 9:50 am
Thanks so much, ladies! It's so great to have an easy pattern in your back pocket you can crank out at a moment's notice, isn't it? I'm delighted you all enjoyed it, and would love to see everyone's creations!
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August 19th, 2009 at 12:49 pm
Hi Deb!
This is Jennifer, Jamie R's friend. I read through your skirt tutorial and at first I thought that there was no way that I could do it. I haven't touched a sewing machine in 3 years, but during a bout of insomnia last night, I came across your website and was inspired to get reaquainted with the old dusty machine. By the time I woke up this morning I had decided that I would try to make the skirt.
I made it for my 16 month old daughter (I have NEVER made a piece of clothing before). It only took about an hour. What a sense of satisfaction, confidence, and beauty this skirt has brought into my life – and my family's life.
It is SOOO adorable…I'm going to make one for my niece and make one for a friends daughter. Thank you so, so much for this tutorial. I hope you have more easy sew tutorials like this one because I don't know what to do next!!! The pictures for the tutorial were awesome and I just can't thank you enough!!!
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March 20th, 2010 at 9:53 pm
Thanks for the super-easy and quick project. I need to make something for a friend’s daughter and I think this would be perfect! I have way to much fabric but when I reduce I will be sure to check out your shop. I live in Atlanta and I have checked out your etsy shop to drool over the fabric. I think I would lose my mind if I entered your bricks and mortar.
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May 20th, 2010 at 9:03 am
[...] it bother me enough to take it out and do it over?” Compare that to, “I’m making a 20-minute skirt for my 18-month-old to wear on playdates at the park, and I’ve put in an uneven hem. Does it [...]
August 18th, 2010 at 2:04 am
[...] 20 Minute Skirt by Deborah from Whipstitch [...]
September 2nd, 2010 at 9:05 am
It’s so cute! Thank u so much for the tuto!
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September 3rd, 2010 at 12:34 am
Thank you so much for the tutorial! I just made one in a cute yellow print with orange dragonflies all over it! I did have one question tho. How wide should the fabric be? I did what a different site suggested of messuring the waist and multiplying that by 1.5. So it turned out really cute but i was wondering if you made it wider?
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Deborah Reply:
September 3rd, 2010 at 2:10 pm
Kay–
I use the full 45″ width, which makes a kind of squared-off shape. You could certainly use less, or you could A-line the side seam to reduce the width at the waistline but keep a full skirt. Hope that helps!
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October 1st, 2010 at 9:34 am
[...] some heavier fabrics for fall. Pair this skirt with tights and you’re all set to go! This 20-minute skirt tutorial comes to you from Whipstitch Modern Sewing. They have a great selection of tutorials, patterns, and [...]
October 20th, 2010 at 12:48 pm
[...] I considered just a top, too, maybe a button-up blouse? She’s got a zillion little 20-minute skirts, and I run into the same tee shirt issue there, so not sure that’s the way to go, either. [...]
November 4th, 2010 at 2:42 pm
WOW!! This is WONDERFUL!! [Where have you been all my life??]
Many, many thanks!
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March 3rd, 2011 at 9:48 pm
Sometimes simple is inspiring and in this case it was so that! In 20 min I now have the cutesy little skirt for my 13 month old. I even out lace and ribbon on the hem and that added such a cute touch. Thanks for the great tutorial and the inspiration.
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March 17th, 2011 at 10:06 pm
I wish I had read thru the comments before I started. I was thinking, “a half yard? That’s 18″ and I proceeded from there to make a very narrow hemmed tube. Thank goodness I stopped before actually putting the elastic in. DUH lol
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May 9th, 2011 at 4:39 pm
Thank you for sharing this wonderful step by step tutorial. I am going to be trying this out tonight!
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October 23rd, 2011 at 6:33 am
Completed my 1st skirt yesterday but… like Francine, I used half a yard of fabric for the width, and my skirt is too narrow for my 3 year old
In any case, I am very proud of my little piece of work!
It must be bc I am foreign and metric
I’ll try again as soon as I get some nice fabric !
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